Epic Trip Endings

After a beautiful and sunny day visiting Iguazu Falls, we walked a few blocks from our hotel to the border of three countries: Paraguay, Argentina, and Brazil. In the picture below we are standing in Argentina, Paraguay is the land on the left and Brazil is the land on the right.

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It was a beautiful spot and fun to see the exact point where the countries meet.

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After checking out that fun little bug shedding his shell on a telephone pole, we next headed out to Itaipu Dam.

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It`s claim to fame is that it produces the most energy of any hydroelectric facility in the world. Pretty proud of Paraguay on that one.

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We enjoyed an informational video (in English, for those of you planning a trip) about the dam and then a tour of the facilities. Kate and Will were even lucky enough to get a helicopter tour of the premises!

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Or something like that.

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After the dam tour we headed toVillarrica to spend the night at our friends Jon and Nalena’s house. It was wonderful to have our old friends meet our new friends. And the delicious pancakes in the morning didn´t hurt either.

Of course a trip to Villarrica isn´t complete without saying hello to the three huge and lazy capybaras that live in the park there.

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I´m always a little suspicios of them as they are quite large. But they were far more interested in lying in the shade then giving me second glance.

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Finally it was time to bus over countless rickety bridges down the bumpy dirt road to our site and give the grand tour of Yuty to Kate and Will. It was so much fun waking up and sipping mate with them on our patio. Walking around the dusty streets pointing out this and that – things that have become familiar to us.

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Like cows in the middle of the street, the unique plants, or the huge ant hills that are firm enough to sit on.

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We even got to show off our new house to them. At the time it was getting spruced up and we weren´t yet living there like we are now. But even now, as things seem to go (sloooowly), the work continues. And we wait. Patiently(?).

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It was a great end to our trip together. Time for chatting, relaxing, and soaking up the time we had left to share. We even whipped up some homemade tortilla shells for our fajita meal. Everything is more fun with friends.

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Now that our friends have all returned to the States and we are settling back into our routine, it’s hard not to miss them immensely. But just writing these posts and looking through our photos brings the smiles to our faces. We’re so thankful for our first set of visitors and look forward to the next. Will it be you?

Iguazu Falls: Take Two

After our week in Buenos Aires and after saying our goodbyes to Jen and LaMont, Kate, Will, Isaiah and I took a short flight to Puerto Iguazu, Argentina to check out the beautiful waterfalls of Iguazu Falls we had heard so much about. Yes, we had just been there with Jen and LaMont but if anything it made me more excited to go back. I hadn’t forgotten about all those rainbows.

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The grounds alone are expansive with many trails to hike, spotting the waterfalls from different angles and distances. This time around we even got to ride a little boat out to a small island that was closed on our first visit due to water levels.

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It is a magical place with the powerful, rushing falls, the butterflies and animals that greet you and welcome you in to their lovely corner of the world.

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Since I wrote more about it before, today I’ll let the photography speak for itself. I culled the photos to my favorites but there are still so, so many to enjoy!

Highlights of Buenos Aires

There is so much to do in Buenos Aires. Some highlights for us over the week that we spent there include the walking tour that introduced us to the town, touring the magnificent Teatro Colón, seeing the famous Recoleta Cemetery, and going to a tango show.

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But to be completely honest, the real highlight was being in the same room as 5 of my all-time favorite friends. Jen, Lamont, Isaiah and I arrived a couple days earlier, but when we saw a little yellow taxi pull up outside our apartment and Kate and Will hop out of it, you bet I let out a squeal of excitement from our second story balcony. Upon hearing that, Kate and Will knew they were in the right place.

Rental Apartment in Buenos Aires

Help me set the scene by imagining being in the same group of friends with these visitors throughout our college days – most often as roommates, housemates, or next door neighbors.

Gardens Buenos Aires

Then after graduation we girls got a house together and dove into the real world. The working world, not The Real World. Slowly we married off to friends we all already knew and remained in the same small town hanging out as much as possible. Perfect, right?

Will and Allison Gardens Buenos Aires

Then one couple gets the bright idea to move to Paraguay for Peace Corps and the other couple moves out to California for a new experience than the town she’d grown up in. All three couples separated for the first time in more than 10 years. What a transition.

Gardens Buenos Aires

Kate and Will Gardens Buenos Aires

We’ve kept in great touch via email and video calling, but having a flesh and blood reunion in Buenos Aires still brings me to tears. It was amazing. Life giving. An instant circle of comfort created by people who truly know you. Oh how good it feels to be known.

Isaiah Posing Gardens Buenos Aires

So it may now be more understandable why one of my favorite parts of the trip was sitting on one of our terraces laughing or crying with our favorite friends. It didn’t hurt that the apartment we rented was amazing. Recently fixed up but in the original, ornate style.

Terrace Rental Apartment Buenos Aires

Terrace Sitting Rental Apartment Buenos Aires

Our Rental Apartment in Buenos Aires

Beautiful Rental Apartment Buenos Aires

We did a lot of walking and talking, taking in the feel of the city and the styles of the different neighborhoods. Like when we stopped for breakfast in Puerto Madero along the river-way, admiring the graceful Puente de la Mujer (Woman’s Bridge).

Puente de la Mujer en Buenos Aires

Or the brightly colored buildings in the funky La Boca neighborhood where we picked up a unique painting of a boat on the water that we plan to hang in our new house.

La Boca Neighborhood Buenos AIres

I highly recommend taking the tour through Teatro Colón. Our tour guide was professional but witty and spoke perfect English. The size of the theater is impressive but the detailing of nearly every inch of floor, wall, and ceiling takes your breath away.

Teatro Colon in Buenos Aires

Front of Teatro Colon in Buenos Aires

He told stories of the fancy couples who attended the events at the theater to be seen. And the special box in the front right-hand side of the theater saved always for the president of Argentina.

Inside Teatro Colon Buenos Aires

Teatro Colon 2

Teatro Colon 8

Teatro Colon 9

Teatro Colon 10

We saw for ourselves that the view from that particular box wasn’t great, with part of the stage being blocked due to the angle. But sitting in that box, the audience can’t help but to look at you in eyesight of the stage. In a way, you become part of the show. And for the president, that is the point.

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I also give all thumbs up to a guided tour of the Recoleta Cemetery.

Front of Recoleta Cemetery

Without one, it would still be a huge cemetery with small streets almost like a miniature town and worth seeing. But the background stories are what makes it so intriguing.

Recoleta Cemetery 1

Like the meaning behind the adornments that families chose for their mausoleum. Or how the materials used changed over the years and why. Or how many times the body of Eva Peron, more affectionately known as Evita, was moved over the years.

Recoleta Cemetery 2

Or the story of the young girl who was pronounced dead from a heart attack. Following tradition, the ceremony was held right away and the sealed casket placed in the family’s mausoleum. But a few days later the groundskeeper called the family to tell them the casket was slightly ajar and, so the story goes, scratch marks were found on the inside of the casket. It was later discovered that the young girl was in what we now know as a coma, and upon waking had tried to escape.

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Our friendly tour guide was quick to point out the line between historical stories and legends gets blurred over time. And how it’s thought that there are so many cats in the cemetery because they like to play with the spirits. Our tour guide, on the other hand, choses to believe they live in the cemetery because two elderly ladies feed them there each day. You be the judge.

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We saw the fancy mausoleum of the man who learned how to remove the lactose from milk, therefore becoming Will’s hero. There are no longer any available spots in the cemetery that is known as the resting place of the rich families of Buenos Aires. But there were a few spots for sale if you’re interested, somewhere in the range $100,000 a piece.

Will and Allison Gardens Buenos AiresStatue Buenos Aires

Spider Garden Buenos AIres

It didn’t seem right to spend time in Buenos Aires, home of the tango, without taking in a tango show. So we gussied up and headed out to El Viejo Almacén to be entertained by songs and tango dancing. It was geared toward tourists, but nevertheless impressed and entertained us and had us all walking home with an extra dance in our step.

El Viejo Almacen Tango Show Buenos Aires

Our time in Buenos Aires was one to remember. Isaiah and I are still so grateful and honored that our friends took the effort, vacation time, and moolah to make this coordinated trip that got the gang together again a reality. From Buenos Aires, Jen and LaMont flew back stateside while Kate and Will journeyed on to Paraguay with us.

Isaiah and Kate Buenos AIres

Have you been to Buenos Aires? What are your must-see recommendations?

Walking Tour Of Buenos Aires

Just when we thought our passport troubles were behind us, our long distance bus to Buenos Aires was stopped before the Paraguay/Argentina border for a document check. We held our breath as the large man who had boarded our bus looked and looked at Jen and LaMont’s passports. Finally, he went into a lecture about how we needed two stamps: one for exiting a country and one for entering. And we were missing one.

Building in Buenos AiresI had to stifle a laugh just because his speech was nearly verbatim what we heard from the border controller a day or two prior. I couldn’t be mad. They are only doing their job and I’m happy to know they actually check that things are being done properly.

Tall building in Buenos Aires

But when he explained that our friends were technically in the country illegally, due to their lack of proper stampage (he hadn’t gotten to our passports yet, where the same problem awaited), I had visions of things going terribly wrong, no one listening to our story about it being an honest mistake, and having to watch Jen and LaMont get sent off on the next plane outta there.

Jen and LaMont with Steiner sign

Even though he left with our passports for what felt like an entire Lord of the Rings and we began to hear (imagine?) the groans of the other passengers who were ready to get back on the road, they eventually showed grace and we were home free. Phew.

Interesting buildings in Buenos Aires

Relaxed and relieved, we tilted our fancy bus seats way, way back and drifted off to sleep. Moments later, our bus stopped and everyone got out. A bathroom break? Why can’t people just use the bathroom on the bus? Why are we the only ones who don’t know what’s going on? Eventually we’re ushered into a nice dining hall where the rest of our bus mates are already seated enjoying an empanada appetizer. Waiters donning fancy suits efficiently served us drinks, a nice chicken and rice meal, and then a flan dessert. We were herded back to the bus as quickly as we entered. On the road again with stomachs full of an unexpectedly legitimate meal, with clocks pushing the midnight hour.

Church outside Recoletta Cemetery Buenos Aires

One of the first things we did in Buenos Aires was take a walking tour from a company called BA Free Tours. Our guide was informative and entertaining and spoke clear English. It was tipped base at the end of the tour and I highly recommend it as an intro to the city and the stories behind some hot spots downtown.

Isaiah on Free Walking Tour

Like this normal looking street of businesses near downtown Buenos Aires.

House on top of buildings in Buenos Aires

But scroll up for another look. Do you see anything unusual? Along the top of the buildings on the left-hand side? There’s a house! The story is that someone built it there so he could have time to go home for his lunch break. Not a bad idea. It’s right next to the tall Obelisk monument.

Obelisk in Buenos Aires

We also learned about the congress building that only opens its front doors about once a year when the president visits. (She doesn’t like to have to explain herself to the people, our guide explained with a laugh.)

Congree Building in Buenos Aires

We saw the Pink House where the president “works.” (Air marks compliments of our tour guide who explained that the president lives a 45-minute helicopter ride from the Pink House. She flies in each day.) You can see when the president is inside the building if there are two Argentine flags flying outside. If she’s not there, there is only one. I found these public symbols interesting since the US sometimes tries to hide where our president is for security reasons.

Casa Rosada en Buenos Aires

We admired the monument at the Plaza de mayo where mothers started meeting to protest the disappearance of their children in the Dirty War. At the time it was illegal for more than 3 people to congregate in public, so the group of mothers broke into groups of 3 and walked around the plaza in protest. To this day, more than 30 years later, they still meet once a week to walk in protest for their children, many who were never found.

Plaze 25 de Mayo in Buenos Aires

We saw the oldest coffee shop in Buenos Aires, Cafe Tortoni, and later went back for drinks. I had tasty sweet churros dunked in the richest hot chocolate. And I do believe the café paired the two menu items especially for dunking purposes. My favorite.

Cafe Tortoni in Buenos Aires

And of course, the city is alive with the spirit of Evita, the beloved former first lady and the base of the musical in her namesake. She’s honored on sides of buildings, shown below, as well as remembered on one of the left balconies of the Pink House, shown 3 photos up, where Evita (and later Madonna playing Evita) passionately spoke to the people.

Face of Evita in Buenos Aires

The city is vibrant and its buildings are entertainment for the eye. It has lush tree-filled plazas to stroll and refreshing fresh-squeezed grapefruit juice for sale on the street.

Park in Buenos Aires

Fresh squeeze grapefruit juice in Buenos Aires

Through the morning tour and exploring on our own, we started to get our bearings in this new city. Of course all that walking can be tiring, so an ice cream slash coffee break was in order.

Ice Cream Break in Buenos Aires

We ended the day touring the oldest part of the church, now set up as a museum, that claims the famous Recoleta Cemetery as its own.

Monk Museum Buenos Aires

Monk Museum Buenos Aires 2

Through its small windows we got glimpses of the impressive cemetery which we would tour in all its glory (and I will write about) another day.

Looking over Recoleta Cemetery Buenos Aires

Showing Off Yuty

The day after our trip to the majestic Iguazu Falls, it was time to cross back into Paraguay and show off the cozy little town we’ve been calling home for the past 8+ months. And while crossing the border back into Paraguay eventually proved to be possible, it wasn’t without some delays and four slapped wrists.

The good news is that although there was absolutely nothing stopping us from riding our bus straight out of Paraguay without a glance at the place where foreigners would need to show their passports and receive their exit stamp (perhaps our bus driver didn’t notice the four white people speaking English and carrying large backpacks who boarded his international bus), the woman in charge of letting us back into Paraguay noticed that this stamp was missing.

Fruit trees in Paraguay

For that, we were impressed. But also disappointed because there wasn’t much we could do at that point to go back in time to get our exit stamp. Luckily, the woman made some calls, checked around on her computer and eventually must have felt satisfied in verbally slapping our wrists by her countless stern reminders that two stamps (not one) are needed. We kept our cool, explained that we understood, blamed it all on our bus driver, and thanked her profusely as we scurried out of the office and into Paraguay before she could change her mind in letting us enter.

Another lucky break was when our bus paused halfway to our site so the bus drivers could enjoy some lunch. Normally this annoys me (try as I might to hide it, in my efforts to be a culturally integrated volunteer) but this time it was perfect. The traditional Sunday lunch is a big asado - grilled meats, yucca, salad, and other traditional dishes. Since we were en route I didn’t think we’d be able to share this big meal with Jen and LaMont.

Jen and Allison in front of house

But instead we all four hopped off the bus, checked out the large grill lined with huge cuts of meat off the patio of someone’s yard, purchased four portions to go and chowed down as our bus bumped along the road toward Yuty.

Here’s a secret. Ever since I arrived in our site I imagined friends or family from back home visiting. So as I’d walk along on normal days I’d often think about what I’d point out or show off. Just when I had gotten used to herds of cows sleeping in the middle of the road, I’d smile thinking about showing that strange site to our visitors. It was amazing to have real, live visitors to finally do that to.

Bike ride in Yuty Paraguay

With Jen and LaMont we drank terere, snacked on guacamole with our Paraguayan friends, did some walking tours around town, took a bike ride, admired the setting sun and even had a chance to take them to the soup kitchen where the kids absolutely adored them.

Playing with kids at soup kitchen

I was beyond impressed at how Jen and LaMont both dove right in to playing frisbee and other games with the kids, chatting and answering all the questions the kids had for these interesting new visitors, serving the food and even helping clean up. The kids kept asking if they were going to live here and to this day someone will still ask about our friends, wondering where they are and saying they miss them. So to say they won the kids over is an understatement.

Jen and LaMont at lake

Dusty as you claimed your Spanish was, my friends, you were impressive and it was an honor hosting you in our town!

Iguazu Falls

As one of the Seven Wonders of the Natural World, the Iguazu Falls had a lot to live up to when we visited them on the Argentinian side with our friends Jen and LaMont. They did not disappoint.

Iguazu Falls in Argentina

Even through the lens of a off-and-on dreary day, the powerful falls were breathtaking.

Iguazu Falls, Argentina

But first, that crossing of the border from Paraguay into Argentina. When our bus stopped at an official building and everyone got out and filed through the line to stamp into Argentina, we did too. After boarding the bus again and driving away Isaiah commented how odd it was to receive the “entering Argentina” stamp before the “leaving Paraguay” one.

Iguazu Falls Jen, LM, Z, Al

But soon enough the magnificent falls had our full attention. The grounds are lush with many walking paths clearly marked with spectacular lookouts along the way.

Devil`s Throat Iguazu Falls

Walking along Devil`s Throat Iguazu Falls

Iguazu Falls, Argentina side

Walking the trails of Iguazu Falls

Iguazu Falls BridgeThe thing about these falls is that, yes, they are huge and powerful, but there are also so many. Two huge sections of them and then countless smaller ones pouring out at every turn in a delightful surprise.

Iguazu Falls

Iguazu Falls Z and Allison

The other surprise was the animals. LaMont described it as a zoo without fences. The koaties were hanging out all over (especially around the food courts) but we obeyed the graphic signs warning us not to feed them.

Koatie at Iguazu Falls, Argentina

Animals at Iguazu Falls

I expected impressive waterfalls, but the addition of butterflies fluttering gracefully in clusters and landing softly on us was like a decadent dessert after an already tasty meal.

Friendly butterflies of Iguazu Falls

Butterfly pet at Iguazu Falls

And besides on my childhood cereal boxes, have I ever seen vibrant toucans hanging out in the trees above me?

Toucans at Iguazu Falls

And birds, monkeys and…snakes?.

Pretty bird at Iguazu Falls

Monkeys at Iguazu Falls

Snake sign at Iguazu Falls

Jen and LaMont chose the extra adventure of taking a boat ride right up nose to nose with the falls. Although they were prepared with all the rain gear we had with us…

Iguazu Falls before boat ride

…they still returned, like Adam Sandler in Billy Madison, a bit wet.

Iguazu Falls after boat ride

Wet, but happy. (Do I need to add this soaking was from the grand mist, not from Jen and LaMont losing their nerve during the ride? Yes, you probably already knew that.)

Impressive Iguazu Falls

And I can`t leave out the rainbows. Yes, even some double ones. With a blog name like ours, you can bet we were thrilled.

Rainbow at Iguazu Falls

After a satisfying day spent with jaws dropped at what nature can do, we took in the sunset just outside the park as we sipped warm drinks and awaited our taxi.

Sunset at Iguazu Falls, Argentina

So why all the talk about the border crossing stamps at the beginning of this post? Well, our adventures get a bit rocky as we try navigating our way back into the country we never officially left. More details to come.

A Clue: Revealed

I’m anxious to tell you about all the fun things we did with our super rad college friends besides going to the Itaipu Dam. We also saw the gorgeous Iguazu waterfalls, spent a week in the lively capital city of Buenos Aires and logged hours sipping in the cool breeze on the two rooftop terraces of our rental apartment there.

I’ll be back with the details and mounds of photos soon but today I wonder if you remember this clue I gave a couple of weeks ago about a big change coming up in our lives.

Clue for Surprise

Any guesses? Here’s another clue.

Moving Day

And another.

Moving Day 2

Yep, it’s moving day for the Goertzes in Paraguay! Since today is a national holiday (Day of the Workers) we thought we’d work on moving. With a break to hang out at the soup kitchen since those hard-working cooks decided not to take the day off.

Although we’ve been very happy in our cozy first apartment that Isaiah lovingly showed off in this video, we’re both excited to settle into a new place. I for one love, love unpacking and finding a new home for everything. It’s also a stand-alone house and closer to the center of town. And quite frankly, it’s just something different. We’re ready to get to know our new neighbors, a new despensa (corner store) and see what this next phase of our service brings.

Ok, back to it. Lift with your legs, right? Stayed tuned for some snappy shots of the new place very soon, my friends.

Itaipu Dam

Oh sweet wonder to be with good friends who truly know all about you. Over the past few weeks we were graced with the presence of some of our favorite people in the world —  friends from Goshen College. Here’s how our epic trip went down:

Phase 1: Tour of Paraguay with Jen & LaMont
Phase 2: Time in Buenos Aires, Argentina with Jen & LaMont, Kate & Will
Phase 3: Tour of Paraguay with Kate & Will

It was a good mix of alone time with each couple as well as time to soak up the whole group together. My stomach was fluttering with excitement and anticipation for weeks and days leading up to the moment we met Jen and LaMont in the airport in Asunción, Paraguay just before midnight. Somehow it felt both completely normal and incredibly rare to see them in our new neck of the woods.

Gifts from Jen and Lamont

Even though Jen and LaMont had just completed a big day of travel, it was difficult to get settled down and to sleep that first night with so many millions of things to talk about. Eventually we did though, in order to start exploring the joys of Paraguay the next morning.

Our first stop was Itaipu Dam near Ciudad del Este, Paraguay. It is a huge dam that generates more energy annually than any other hydroelectric facility in the world. Go Paraguay! It’s actually a joint project between the neighboring countries of Brazil and Paraguay. You get the friendly, fuzzy feeling of these two countries working together in every stage of the project, from construction to today’s operations, as you pass by the row of Brazilian and Paraguayan flags as you enter the visitor’s center.

Helicopter over Itaipu Dam

Later the fuzzy feeling may diminish slightly when you learn that Paraguay must sell the energy it doesn’t use to Brazil at prices based on energy rates in 1975, the year construction on the dam began and a contract was signed. As it stands, Brazil and Paraguay each own half of the dam’s huge turbines, so 10 each. However, due to its relatively small size, Paraguay uses less than 2 of its turbines. Energy generated from its remaining 8 turbines is sold to Brazil.

Overlooking Itaipu Dam, Paraguay

This dam provides close to 90% of the total energy that Paraguay uses, and even with the extra energy from Paraguay’s turbines, only 20% of the total energy used by Brazil.

Spillways of Itaipu Dam, Paraguay

Everything about the dam was huge, and therefore quite impressive. Our tour guide told us that when the spillways are opened (which only happens 5-7 times per year when the water level gets too high – so don’t visit the dam expecting to see the beautiful rushing water that all the brochures picture) more water passes per second than the Iguazu Falls, a beautiful natural attraction we headed off to visit the following day.

Man With Purse Discriminated

Isaiah's leather man purse

We discovered the inequality of grocery stores in Asunción when Isaiah had to “check” his man purse while I got to carry mine around the store. The attendant explained that purses are allowed, but that men don’t carry purses. Guess they haven’t met Isaiah and his self-named “man purse” he bought in Chile after months of searching for the right one. My sexy man. His sexy leather (man) purse.

Paraguay Emprende

Our sector of the Peace Corps has two main national projects. One focuses on leadership and one on entrepreneurship. I’ve been working closely with the entrepreneurship project, which just got a brand new name, a new logo, and even a slightly new focus. It used to be called Jóvenes Empresarios del Paraguay (Young Entrepreneurs of Paraguay) but now we are Paraguay Emprende (Paraguay Starts). And we have a jazzy new logo to boot.

Paraguay Emprende Logo

Isaiah was on the team that designed the logo, a team led by my friend Nalena who I’ve mentioned on here often. I love it.

Isaiah and I were honored when our church from back home contacted us to see if they could financial support the Paraguay Emprende project with donations they’re collecting in April. So we put together this little video of us chatting it up and shots of us teaching our business class here in town as a way to introduce our church to the project. I thought you might like to see it too.

We wanted to just wing it so it didn’t sound rehearsed but Isaiah sometimes gets camera-shy and I sometimes get camera chatty, so we had to do some cutting and pasting. It was fun though!

In case you wished you were one of our students, here’s a couple of clips from our class with the sound on. So grab a pencil and join us, will you? And a special bonus of some outtakes at the very end because they’re always embarrassing fun, right?

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